The cutting edge of the
Revenge is sweeter
on a V65 Sabre!
by Doug Hathaway
Lets do something to add to the already awesome power of the 1984 and 1985
Honda VF1100S or as we fondly call em "The Sabres"
Oh, oh, here it comes another lesson on how to spend big
Not so, claim I!
Follow along my friend, and I'll relate on how I got the
most for the least that I could afford.
Do I need to cut up my Sabre airbox?
No, there is no need to drill holes, cut this or that.
Your Sabre airbox can be returned to original simply by taking
the K&N ChargerFilter out and putting the Old one back in.
Where can the K&N filter be purchased?
You should be able to get one at your favorite
Auto Zone out there for around 30 bucks or so.
The number of the one in the pictures
NM33-2050 (dimensions 10.00 x 6.812 x 1.062 inches
New number's that may work without to much cutting, if any.
NM33-2534 (dimensions 9.687 x 5.562 x 1.25) inches
But you are on your own here as I used the
one that I could get that we had in stock.
If Auto Zone doesn't have one they can order it in
on the next regularly scheduled Auto Zone Truck.
Normal stock truck delivers once a week at most locations.
What do I need to do this?
Here is what you will need to buy and you can get it all
at the Auto Zone when you pick up the filter.
1ea. K&N Airfilter/FilterCharger Nr. NM33-2050
Price $ 33.99
1ea. K&N AirCharger/Airfilter Nr. NM2534 AutoZone
Price $ unkown at this time.
1ea. Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealer Nr.
Price $ 3.99
1ea. AutoZone Nr AZ4 Carburator Cleaner
On Sale Price 2 for $ 1.68
Do you have to cut the aircharger down or what?
Yes, you do! But I just used a sharp pocket knife
to do so.
There are no modifications made to the airbox, only
to the airfilter itself.
At this time the NM2534 has not been tried
Get your Airbox out of the V65 - Down to the two large
screws in the bottom at that level with the metal screen.
It will come out in one piece if it is the 1984
V65 with the two air inlets on the sides.
I don't know about the 1985 airbox with the single front air intake.
More on this later as I have one ordered.
Take it apart and remove the old foam and the two metal support frames.
What I used of those parts were: the top Metal support frame and of course both the
upper and lower plastic airbox parts, screws and the little spooge collection nipple.
Then I cleaned up the metal frame and the plastic with
engine degreaser and hot water and a scrub brush.
Follow that with carburetor cleaner and the brush again.
Until it is entirely free of oil and crud inside and out.
Now set the plastic aside and using the metal frame as a pattern from the top of the
You will be able to visualize what you must remove,
from both long ends... but remember that the lower
airbox is angled and does not go straight down.
The secret is to slide the filter to the rear after you cut
off both ends, but leaving the main filter frame
intact, and then fill the exposed end with the
adhesive/sealer when done with all the rest.
If you have cut the ends off to the main filter frame then turn it
top side down
and place it on a large flat cutting board and count in to the second flute
(closest to the cutting board) and with a sharp knife cut through the
second flute for the length of the filter and cutting the main
square filter frame through at both ends.
Now do the other side and you should be ready to trial fit.
You will have to bevel the corners a bit.
Try not to bend the flutes to much.
Do not glue the bottom side of the filter in place
We don't want the glue to flake off and go through
the metal screen and into the engine.
Now with the filter in the lower airbox with one end resting on the angled
end, gently press the filter an equal distance down all the way around
(it helps to use the top metal frame to do this with).
When it is level to your satisfaction remove the metal and with the Black
Adhesive/Sealer flow in a 3/16 fillet all along the top edges of filter and
actually gluing it to the sides of the airbox lower.
Making sure that there are no open holes for the air to flow around the filter.
Now gently press the metal frame into the adhesive watching that no
large globs of the stuff gets on to the working surface of the filter.
When it is in place to your satisfaction, wet a forefinger and smooth
the adhesive into a fillet, adding a bit of adhesive if needed.
Don't worry about the angled end of the airbox end where there will be a gap.
You can fill that in about 15 to 20 minutes when the
rest of the adhesive has almost formed a skin on it.
Clean up and admire your work, when you think that it is
still wet enough you can add more adhesive to the gaps
at the angled end and fillet them in to please yourself.
When you are satisfied that all gaps are filled and that no air can leak past
the filter then place the Top of the airbox on the lower and secure in
place with the two locks in front and the two screws in the rear.
This is so that we can assure that we haven't warped
the lower case to the point that the top will not fit.
Okay, now set it aside for about 16 to 18 hours and let it cure.
All right here comes the question...
But Doug, you have glued the airfilter into the airbox.
Yes we have!
But if the job is done as described the metal frame will set onto its little stop ridge
and after this adhesive has dried it will be a simple matter to just score a line with
a pocket knife completely around the fillet and with some gentle pressure from
the bottom side, it will pop loose if you want to take it out.
Though why you would want to is beyond me.
With the K&N cleaning kit and reoiler you can do the service
work with it still in place in the airbox, but off the bike.
Cleaning your K&N aircharger!
Spray on the cleaner from the top side let it set for awhile
and then back flush with warm water from the bottom.
Let it dry while you service the rest of the bike and then respray with
the oil from the kit and put it back on the bike and go ride.
More on K&N airfilters for the V65 Sabre below.
The text is borrowed from the
SabMag Honda V4 BBS where a question
on K&N airfilter for the V65 Sabre is answered by Dave Dodge - DRP.
Also the K&N filter, part # 33-2034 will fit.
For more info on the issue go to the
Eric Sterbenz wrote:
> Found a K&N that is almost a perfect fit for the big Sabre. Just a little trimming around the
> gasket. K&N 33-2034. It is much closer to the actual size of the airbox and with careful
> trimming of the rubber gasket you shouldn't need any glue or sealant. When I put in the K&N I
> dropped the air/fuel ratio right down into the optimum range and gained 3 full HP on the top end.
> However I started out with the wrong tool for trimming and hacked one side up a little more than
> I wanted. With that done, I got a better fit putting it in upside down with the original lower metal
> support. I was wondering if it makes any difference with these filters which way is sits in there?
Direction should not matter. I would check with Doug H. in Denver in regards to how he installed one. He claims it
works well on his Sabre in higher altitudes, however, I have not seen a dyno sheet to verify if it makes any more power.
Typically, an automotive K&N filter is more restrictive than one designed for a motorcycle.
As for tuning, the bikes are lean to start with. We usually shim the carb needles and install one size bigger mains
(front and rear are different) on front and rear to correct the lean condition. This is very important, you must be certain
that the carbs are functionally clean. Many odd running characteristics are traced directly to clogged passages in the
carbs, and trying to patch these conditions by changing jets is only compunding the problem. Just to give you some insight,
I have rebuilt 38 sets of carbs since January for customers and not one set was clean enough to be called functionally clean
until I rebuilt them.
As for jetting and jet kits, these specs vary slightly on nearly every bike and model. Some bikes like Dynojet kits,
others like only minor changes. Also changing the intake flow changes the specs. The guys that are having the best luck are
the ones that take their bikes to a dyno before and after to verify the results of the change. Using the butt dyno does not
tell you anything, nor does hearing more noticeable intake noise. In my experience the only advantage to using a K&N on a
Sabre is that it is cleanable. But expense really is not a problem on the Sabre as the replacement foam is only $10.00 and
lasts a good couple of years. Stay away from the Uni brand foam, it does not last and will crumble into your intake system
I have also been receiving many offlist e-mails regarding jet specs for use without airbox lids, and even a couple of
people who want to use pod filters. It is all possible but there is no set specs. On the drag bikes we even run without any
airbox at all, and it works great with a jet kit.
Enough for now,
Dave Dodge - DRP
AMA, SCRA, ProStar, NHRA
Interceptor Drag Bike (Parting Out)
Killer Vee III ('96 Magna Dragbike)